Craftbeer Tourism in Japan - Honeycomb and Hopworks, Shinjuku, Tokyo

Shinjuku. When you hear that name, many people probably think of Shinjuku Station, the busiest station in Japan in terms of passenger traffic (according to JR East, 2024), crowded with people—including tourists—at all hours, from early morning to just before the last train. But the place I visited this time, Honeycomb and Hopworks, a honey-beer brewery located in Shinjuku Ward, sits in a calm, peaceful neighborhood that feels worlds away from the chaotic atmosphere around Shinjuku Station. It’s almost hard to believe it’s in the same ward.

I arrived at Ochiai Station, which is on the Tozai Line that starts at Nakano Station. The line intersects with the JR network only at Takadanobaba, so you can’t get there directly from Shinjuku Station; you either transfer at Nakano or Takadanobaba, or walk from Higashi-Nakano Station on the Sobu Line, which also runs through Shinjuku. Ochiai Station lies right on the boundary between Nakano and Shinjuku wards. When I exited the underground ticket gate and emerged above ground, I realized just how quiet the surrounding residential area was. The street in front, Waseda Street, isn’t very wide, and there aren’t many tall buildings—just small office buildings, and once you step into the side streets, rows of traditional single-family homes. Honeycomb and Hopworks is located about a five-minute walk from the station.

Honeycomb and Hopworks
2-10-19 Kamiochiai, Shinjuku City, Tokyo

Turning off Waseda Street onto Kamiochiai Street, where the brewery is located, I passed a mix of houses, apartment buildings, and small shops like dry cleaners. Before long, as dusk settled in and the street grew dim, the brewery’s sign came into view.

When I stepped inside, I was greeted by the counter immediately in front of me. Behind it was the kitchen, and further back I could see the brewing equipment lined up. All the seating consisted of counter seats, some without chairs. Perhaps in reference to the honey theme, the octagonal lattice-patterned tables were a charming touch.

For my order, I chose the Honeycomb Plan, which comes with two regular-sized craft beers and a plate of snacks.

The snack plate arrived first—a pleasing assortment with a mix of Japanese and Western flavors.

For my first beer, I went with Honeycomb Bullet, which the menu recommended.

For my second, I chose 1/3 Gravity, a red honey ale.

Since it was still early in the evening, not long after the place had opened for the day, I was the only customer at first. A little later, a pair of women came in. I wasn’t listening closely, but from what I picked up when they arrived, one of them had visited the brewery before and had brought her friend along, eager to introduce her to the place. There aren’t many breweries—whether in Tokyo or even the greater Kanto region—that specialize in honey-based craft beer, so it felt clear to me that the brewery is supported by loyal fans like them.